Think of ‘Italian white’ and you’ll likely think Pinot Grigio.
It’s obvious why it’s so popular – offering easy sipping, often with a rather neutral character, it’s a variety that errs on the safe side and tends not to offend.
But I reckon it’s time to take a look at Italian whites that cost less and taste more interesting (beyond the ubiquitous Pinot Grigio).
From Verdicchio to Vermentino, there’s a wealth of fresh new styles on the shelves – which may have eluded your basket thanks to names that are hard to say.
I always feel for poor old Falanghina, which tastes delicious but sounds like an unfortunate infection.
Across Italy there are beautiful white grapes with more personality than Pavarotti whose resonant, cheery flavours sing from every glass.
Take Soave. Grown near Verona, it’s a wine that’s been off the radar a bit thanks to some quite bland incarnations.
More... Visit Olly on Twitter Visit Olly on Facebook Visit Olly's website
The main grape is Garganega, which in its prime form can create wines of stellar peachy refreshment, such as those of leading producer Pieropan (see below).
And if you look for ‘Classico’ and ‘Superiore’ on the label, you’ll find good high street examples that won’t break the bank, like Tesco
More from Olly Smith... OLLY SMITH: A grill's best friend: It's barbecue time... and these sizzlers will go with a banger! 29/05/13 OLLY SMITH: The name’s Blanc... Sauvignon Blanc: Bond star Roger finds it very Moore-ish. Here's why 22/05/13 OLLY SMITH: My crafty pint cost £5,000 01/05/13 OLLY SMITH: Iconic, ever-changing, maturing gracefully - Riesling is the 'gloriously naked' Madonna of wines 24/04/13 OLLY SMITH: The surge in brilliant Bordeaux under £20 to cheer me up 17/04/13 OLLY SMITH: The Pink Floyd of pinot costs £1,800 a bottle, but I've found something else with two noughts knocked off 12/04/13 OLLY SMITH: Perfect pizza partners: How to make the right choice of wine 05/04/13 OLLY SMITH: Try some new wild flavours in the wine aisles this Spring 27/03/13 VIEW FULL ARCHIVEFinest Soave 2011 (13 per cent) at £7.99.
Verdicchio is another classy grape that never seems to grab the headlines. Moncaro Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi 2011/2012 (12.5 per cent), £5.59 from Waitrose, is a gleaming, citrus-tinged white with a rounder almond-like twist.
Wines with names that are memorable and relatively easy to pronounce, such as Gavi and Fiano, do pretty well in the UK.
But don’t let a name such as Grecanico, Grillo, Pecorino (nothing to do with the cheese) or Zibibbo put you off.
These all embrace a common theme of light, delicate refreshment – perfect for pairing with seafood. Meanwhile, for a searing glass of mineral-pure power, I recommend exploring the white wines of Mount Etna in Sicily.
If you still really do fancy a glass of Pinot Grigio, then at least pick an example with lemony flair, such as Palataia Pinot Grigio 2012 (13 per cent, Germany), £8.49 from Marks & Spencer.
But with so many stunning alternatives out there, I’d urge you to sample what Italy has to offer beyond the frontier of neutrality.
