OLLY SMITH: Riesling is the 'gloriously naked' Madonna of wines
It’s regarded by many as the noblest expression of winemaking – but Riesling (pronounced ‘Rees-ling’) is also highly misunderstood.
To me, it’s a nudist: rather than hiding behind oak, for example, each bottle is usually fuelled solely by the quality of the actual grapes.
But it can seem like an enigma, with sweet, dry and even sparkling variants available. Let’s strip it bare.
First up, some of the best dry Riesling comes from Oz. Look to Clare Valley and wineries such as Grosset and Paulett’s for wines so sharp it’s like sipping lightning from a cloud of limes.
Western Australia also has some great examples, such as Plantagenet Riesling 2011 (12.5 per cent, £14.99, Morrisons), which is beautifully snappy.
You can find this fresher style of Riesling elsewhere in the world, too – from New Zealand to South Africa to the U.S.
Top names in Austria include Pichler and Rabl, with vino so radiant and crisp it gleams on your palate like tasty diamonds.
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At the other extreme, there are some lusciously sweet Rieslings, including Paul Cluver’s Noble Late Harvest Riesling 2011 (10.5 per cent, South Africa, £14.99 for 37.5cl, Marks & Spencer) and Peller Estates Riesling Icewine (10.5 per cent, Canada, £33.99, Morrisons).
Such wines are thrilling for their Starburst-style balance of sweetness and zing. Serve them chilled on their own or with a slice of blue cheese.
In Germany, Riesling’s spiritual home, such very sweet wines are known as ‘Beerenauslese’ or – sweeter still – ‘Trockenbeerenauslese’.
For drier German kit, look for the word ‘Trocken’; Stefan Winter’s 2011 Riesling Trocken (12.5 per cent, Rheinhessen, £12.95, swig.co.uk) is turbocharged with juicy, bright fruit.
I also adore the lower-alcohol, hyper-fruity German Rieslings labelled ‘Spätlese’ (see below).
And nearby Alsace makes some fabulous Riesling – Trimbach’s Cuvée Frédéric Emile 2006 (13 per cent, £39, greatwesternwine.co.uk) is a lemony stunner that ages beautifully.
Speaking of ageing, over time fine Riesling can develop ‘boot polish’ or ‘petrol’ aromas.
If that’s not your bag, stick to young, fresh stuff such as Villa Maria’s Private Bin Riesling 2011 from New Zealand (12 per cent, £9.49 at Majestic, or £7.99 if you buy two from Tuesday).
You could say, then, that Riesling is the Madonna of grape varieties: iconic, ever-changing, capable of maturing gracefully.
But I prefer to think of it as being gloriously naked.
