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OLLY SMITH: Perfect pizza partners: How to make the right choice of wine

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Picicini Montepulciano d'Abruzzo Riserva DOC 2009 is a serious wine

I have a weekly conversation with my wife Sophie that goes something like this:

Me: ‘Let’s fly to Naples and hunt down the best pizza in the world.’

Her: ‘Darling, there are perfectly good pizzas here in Britain. You’re eating one now. And it’s 9pm.’

She’s right, of course. We Brits love pizza, and there’s a host of gourmet pizza joints opening across the country.

Where pizza is concerned I have a policy: to order one more than the number of people eating. It never gets left behind – try it.

The truth is, though, that some of the best pizzas I’ve ever nibbled were served to me in local Italian restaurants.

Part of what made them so special was their awesome value – they cost just a couple of euros. But what really makes for a perfect pizza moment is the right choice of wine.

From Margheritas to Four Seasons, nearly all pizzas are big on tomato.

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Ask Olly...

Clive wants to know how a wine labelled Shiraz can have other grapes blended with it.

EU law currently dictates that any wine whose label indicates a single grape must contain a minimum of 85 per cent of that grape. So the other 15 per cent can indeed be blended from other varieties

The natural acidity in tomato pairs well with red wines that have similar zip to them, such as those employing the Sangiovese grape, including Chianti (look for Classico on the label, denoting better quality) and top-notch Brunello di Montalcino.

Brunello can be pricey, but it’s well worth the money for serious wine fans, as the better examples develop multiple layers of savoury flavours as they age, which can get so complex that drinking them is like getting stuck into a Dickens novel.

I’ve just nabbed the last three magnums of Fattoria Poggio di Sotto 2004 from  bbr.com, which I’m keeping back till I find the ultimate pizza.

Wine Rules: No 42

For a good food-wine pairing, aim for similar levels of intensity.If the dish is light, choose a light vino; if it’s heavy, try something richer. But the most important thing to remember is this: if you like it, then it’s the best food-and-wine match in the world!

But in the meantime, I’m also partial to a drop of Valpolicella Ripasso, some good-quality examples of which can be found on UK shelves – such as Marks & Spencer 2010 Valpolicella Ripasso, 13.5 per cent at £8.99.

Or how about having a crack at Teroldego (see my recommendations)?

Southern Italy is worth exploring if you like more beefy and hearty ingredients on your pizza. If you’re rocking a Meat Feast, try a dose of Primitivo.

It’s the same grape as Zinfandel and tends to have a rich, bold, fruity character with a whisker of spice – spot on with a bit of spicy sausage.

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Prefer your wines more mellow?

In that case, a glass or two of soft, fruity Montepulciano d’Abruzzo is hard to beat. Alternatively, there’s Moncaro Rosso Piceno, a similar style for just over five quid that’s always nice with a slice.

However, there’s one area of Italy whose wines I’m loving more and more for their quality, creative character and value for money.

Folks, let’s set sail for Sicily.

If you fancy sampling the island’s finest, a good place to start is Mount Etna, which produces curious and compelling wines such as Passopisciaro. Made from Nerello Mascalese, this has the untamed intensity of a puma in a staring contest.

Nero d’Avola is richer and rounder, offering fab examples to suit all budgets, from Planeta’s plush Santa Cecilia to the wallet-friendly Tesco Finest Nero d’Avola.

If it’s a white you want, the moreish tang of Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi is a good bet, especially with ocean-themed pizzas – or you could plump for a peachy glass of Fiano from Campania.

Feudi di San Gregorio is another name to keep your eyes peeled for. And if that’s not enough variety for you, you could always settle for a cool glass of  Italian lager.

The thought of all those delicious slices has got me itching to book a flight to Napoli.

If I find the perfect pizza, I promise to bring you back a slice. Just don’t tell Mrs S.

Wine news

As I mentioned the other week, I’ll be running the London Marathon on Sunday April 21 for Rockinghorse, a Sussex-based charity improving the lives of sick children. For more information, visit justgiving.com/jollyolly – and please cheer at me on the day. I’ll need it, along with a glass of refreshing English sparkling wine at the finish. From Sussex, of course.






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