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What do we want for summer? Mountains, snow and an adrenaline-filled family trip

You were SO slow! I bet you used the brake. Dad and I sped the whole way down,' laughed my son Lucas. 'Let's have another race!'.

Oh gawd, again? Boys never get tired.

We were speeding on the Maisiflitzer, an Alpine toboggan on rails with track speeds of up to 24mph down the Maiskogel in Austria.

Height of fun: Margarita poses with Lucas after they soak up the chilly summer mountain view

Usually we would choose to have a beach holiday during the summer, ideally somewhere extremely hot. But now my very active sons Lucas, seven, and Theo, three, are older, I thought a lakes and mountains trip would be more of a challenge and, more importantly, use up their excess energy.

That day we had already taken three cable-cars to the top of Mount Kitzsteinhorn. From the summit at 10,000ft – the highest point in the Salzburg region – you have amazing views of the Alps. You can admire the scenery from the cafe, too, while tucking into schnitzels and cakes. 

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That was not all, you can ski most of the year as the Kitzsteinhorn is glacial. There is also a cinema and an exhibition that you get to by walking down a 1,200ft tunnel through the mountain. It takes you through to another platform that clings to the southern flank, with more unforgettable views to admire, particularly the Grossglockner, Austria's highest mountain.

The boys were itching to try the sledges they spotted on a slope just below us. We stumbled down a steep snow track to reach it with the boys hanging from my husband David.

On the waterfront: The Madden family were staying at Zell Am See in Austria

I lost count of the times we all bombed down – it was never-ending fun. It was surreal to be tobogganing in the summer.

Eventually I took a rest in the sun and watched the wispy clouds float in while the boys and their dad kept on going. You can imagine that after a day of flying down mountains we had speed written all over our faces when we returned to the Grand Hotel in Zell am See, which is right on the shore of the crystal-clear Lake Zell.

We found the other guests had been having a more gentle day sunbathing and reading on sunloungers or rowing, with the braver ones swimming in the icy lake.

From our rooms we had views of the sparkling lake and the green mountains. In the evenings I liked to watch the twinkling lights in the distance and the swans gliding up and down at all times. Just like my children, they rarely rest.

The weather was perfect for dining by the lake. We were entertained by a quartet with an accordion and a guitar, all in leather breeches with braces, woolly socks, red jackets and hats. Aside from their outfits, their singing was fantastic – very gentle and jolly. If the setting, the music and the food didn't raise your spirits then nothing would.

Full of beans: Lucas found plenty to keep him entertained thanks to a range of local activities

We were staying half-board, which took the stress out of having to find somewhere to eat with tired children. Once dinner was over, we all plodded back to our rooms with our tummies full and drifted happily into the land of nod.

The following morning dawned grey and misty, not one suited to exploring the mountains. After a huge breakfast and some shopping in Zell, we headed to the Tauern Spa Hotel in Kaprun, a short drive away. I've never seen so many pools: indoor, outdoor, big and small, with slides and without, with jets and lights, the whole shebang.

There is also a spa, saunas (with and without clothes) and steam rooms. Lucas couldn't get enough of the 415ft waterslide with light effects. After splashing down he would dash back to the top and do it again. Theo was too young for it so he stuck with the slide in the kids area, which he loved.

After hours playing in the water it was time to head back to Zell. Theo was so tired he fell asleep on the bench of one of the changing rooms while he was waiting for me to get him changed.

The changing area is huge, rows and rows of cubicles and lockers, all perfectly clean, and nice showers, too. If my council could run our local swimming pool with such efficiency, order and cleanliness I would be there daily.

Time for a dip: Theo and Lucas still had plenty of time for swimming and sunshine

On our last day we woke up to a cloudless morning, perfect for checking out the Schmidolins Adventure Trail on the Schmittenhohe, Zell's local mountain. We took the gondola lift up and found glossy-green meadows and forests.

The hiking trails there are a clever way of getting the children to do lots of walking without realising it as they are excited about reaching the next stage. There was plenty of climbing, balancing and sliding activities along the way all in search of the next clue.

The children's electric motorbikes near the gondolas cost extra. Clad in protective gear and helmet, Lucas picked up speed round the track as he gained confidence and tried to catch up with another boy who was shooting off ahead. It was definitely worth the €9 (£7.60) – he still talks about it and wishes he could do it again.

Once again, Theo ran out of batteries after another vigorous day and too much fresh mountain air. As you can see, my plan was working – they ended every day exhausted.

Back at the hotel, I sat on our balcony watching the action on the lake while Theo had a nap. The wind had picked up and windsurfers and the sailing boats were out. Lucas and David still had plenty of energy left and decided to try the hotel's indoor swimming pool.

How time flies. Before we knew it we had to head back to the airport. Alfred, our driver, said he and his four sons had been out water-skiing on the lake the previous day.

With the range of activities round here they must be kept busy all year round. I bet they don't get bored. And, best of all, they have a spectacular landscape right on their doorstep. Lucky boys.

Travel Facts

Thomson Lakes & Mountains (0871 230 8181, www.thomsonlakes.co.uk) offers seven nights at the four-star Grand Hotel in Zell am See from £775 per adult including flights from Gatwick to Salzburg, transfers, half-board, afternoon snack, bike hire, use of rowing boats and pedalos. Also included is a free sailing taster, a guided walk, daily activity programme, free children supervision for three to 12-year-olds from Monday to Friday with an activity programme.

For more on Zell am See, visit www.zellamseekaprun. com and www.salzburgerland.com. Holiday Extras (www.holidayextras.co.uk) offers eight days' parking at Gatwick Airparks from £45.99. Other tour operators offering a Lakes & Mountains programme include Inghams (www.inghams.co.uk)





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