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Kitesurfing in Greece: Lefkada, the island that will literally sweep you off your feet

Lefkada’s Milos Beach is something of a windy mecca for high flyers. I’m here for a course in kitesurfing and have just set eyes on the 13-metre monsters that instructor Christos calls kites.

"There is one very important thing to remember," he says as he straps me into a harness. "If the wind takes the kite too high you must let go straight away.

"Only last week a man who had not received proper training, flew his kite into the headwind and forgot to let go. We found him on the other side of the island – he was ok, just a bad leg and a few broken ribs."

True blue: Lefkada's Milos Beach is a popular spot for kite and windsurfing

He looks at me seriously to help drive home his point, registering my palpable fear before breaking out in laughter. "Don’t worry," he assures me, “I’ve seen worse.”

We spend the morning on dry land where I learn to control the kite; we're harnessed together to make sure that I don’t run away, I presume. By mid-afternoon the wind has picked up and I’m thrown in at the deep end. Strapped to a board, it’s sink or swim... or fly.

Floating headlong with the board stretched out in front of me in one hand, I try to keep the kite steady with the other as it begins to winch me slowly out beyond the break. When I’m ready, I pull down and sweep the sail high above, holding it just behind the strongest part of the thermal wind. Flipping the board around and strapping my feet in, I position myself perpendicular to the shore and prepare to stoop the kite.

Windswept: Jack prepares to master his 13-metre monster kite

Windy mecca: Kitesurfers strut their stuff on Milos Beach

As the sail begins its downward arc an incredible surge of energy launches me out of the water. In the time it takes me to adjust, I’m already completely out of control. Instinctively I hold on tight and the kite rises immediately, sending me flying. Christos is laughing again: “Excellent Jack, for a second you were really cruising.”

It felt more like aquaplaning. I’m still shaking all over but can’t resist another go – it may be mostly holding on for dear life but that’s also the main attraction.

Not far to the pool: Villa Myrtia, an example of the accommodation at Pavezzo Country Retreat

Thrilled but worn out after a day of being thrown around like a ragdoll, my hotel beckons. Tucked away in the hilltop village of Katouna, the Pavezzo Country Retreat is so well hidden it’s hard to tell where it begins and ends.

Built into the hillside, a cluster of 19th century cottages have been carefully restored from top to bottom and furnished with locally sourced antiques.

Modern amenities are discreetly placed throughout and it takes me a while to discover an indoor plunge pool sunk secretively into the rocky foundations of my villa.

From here the land slopes away to the east, which is lush and green, and on to the Ionian Sea. Facing northward, a thin finger of sand points to the Greek mainland, separated from it by a narrow channel. Lefkadians are proud of their detachment and every so often the channel is dredged to stop shifting sands from bridging the gap.

A drive inland and winding mountain roads whisk you treacherously but spectacularly up from the coast, past villagers sipping coffee and whitewashed houses dotted among rows of olive trees. Occasionally a break in the ranks allows a glimpse of the cliffs below and a cinematic seascape beyond.

I stop in the village of Athani on the west side of the island. Just off the main square is the Panorama d’Athani (no restaurant was more aptly named). From a small veranda jutting over the cliff face, an unending succession of breathtaking beaches curve beneath. Diners sit at small tables with gingham clothes filling up on dishes of olives, pitta and lungfuls of sea breeze.

Up front: Lefkas town offers delicious meze with a view

In the evening I head into Lefkas town, the island’s capital. A compact place, its Venetian streets lined with orthodox churches and clock towers have hardly deviated in the intervening centuries. The atmosphere is refreshingly free from the frenetic pace of its more famous Ionian cousins.

Nidri, on the east coast, is closer to the stereotypical Greek island experience. A mile-long parade of bars, restaurants and beach huts, it harbours gargantuan island ferries, which double up as nightclubs at sundown.

Across the water, the sultry palms of sister islands Skorpios and Meganissi promise a quiet glamour. My ride for the day is a low-slung speedboat complete with wood panelling and a grizzled, bare-chested skipper.

Traditional: Nidri is a spot with a vibrant nightlife, including ferries that become nightclubs

After a brisk tour around a succession of secret coves and hideaways we stop for lunch at Porto Vathi, on Meganissi. The quayside is alive with diners and shoppers. It is also where you will find Errikos Taverna, which showcases some of the region's culinary treats. It’s worth the trip alone.

What begins as a few tasters quickly turns into a full-blown, seven-course feast, and it all comes at once: crispy gavros (sardines) devoured whole, sumptuous grilled octopus, bakaliaros (salt cod), moussaka, Greek salad (of course), lashings of tzatziki, and some indescribably tasty grilled cheese. There is barely room on the table cloth and the rest of the day slips away by a sleepy beach bar.

A fitting end to my Greek odyssey is a hike up the mountains behind Lefkas. My guide Spiros is a sprightly man who, though much older than me, bounds ahead with unbridled enthusiasm.

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We follow a trail called 'honey gorge'. The river bed has dried smooth and white and the birches and pear trees fold away from the banks to reveal our path. Despite the heat the air is still fresh and tinged with the smell of wild sage.

Above the treeline the terrain opens out and cypress trees make way for grasses and mountain flowers. The enchanting hum of insects can be heard reverberating through the sandy rock.

An old church stands in isolation watching over the island, nearly 1000 metres above the sea. Inside the incense is still burning.

Lefkada seems unscathed by troubles across the water; it is truly a land of milk and honey – a signature combination deliciously reworked in the capital’s frozen yoghurt parlours.

Things appear to be looking up in Greece - certainly when seen from these heady heights.

Travel Facts

A villa sleeping two people at the Pavezzo Country retreat costs from 120 euros a night (www.pavezzo.gr, 0030 264 507 1782).

Hire cars with Avis (www.avis.gr) start from 157 euros based on seven days in May.

A two-hour long kite surfing lesson and equipment rental costs 150 euros per person (www.milosbeach.gr, +30 2645021332).

Flights to Preveza from Gatwick are priced from £259pp (based on October departures) with Thomson Airways, call 0871 230 2555 or visit www.thomson.co.uk).

For more on the island, visit www.lefkada.gr.






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