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Holidays in Tuscany: Medieval towers, treasure hunts and Roman ruins on a child-friendly trip

My eight-year-old son Hayden is obsessed with the BBC series Horrible Histories, so what better place for a family holiday than Florence. Ruthless Medicis, a scheming Machiavelli and the best ice cream in the world. He was hooked.

I didn’t need much persuading either. My image of Florence and Tuscany was idyllic: magnificent art, medieval hilltop towns, delicious food and superb red wine.

Mane attraction: Hayden with his soft-toy lion at the Villa San Michele hotel

As we were planning to explore Tuscany by car, we wanted a child-friendly hotel just outside the city. Parking in central Florence is difficult as you can't even enter the centre without a special resident permit.

We chose Villa San Michele, the most beautiful hotel. It’s situated on a hill in the town of Fiesole and the views of Florence and the surrounding countryside are simply stunning.

The hotel was built as a monastery in the 15th century and this year turns 600. The façade is attributed to Michelangelo and the interior is decorated with ancient carvings and frescoes (a large fresco of The Last Supper in the original building is breathtaking).

Rooms with a view: The beautiful Villa San Michele hotel is situated on a hill in the town of Fiesole

After taking in the views, we strolled through the lovely terraced gardens. Young guests are certainly made to feel welcome. In our room, Hayden found a soft-toy lion, the symbol of the hotel, and his own bathrobe and slippers, which he loved. "This is the best hotel ever", he grinned.

Villa San Michele has also started a complimentary kids club for children aged four to 12 in the former chapel. The children will be able to make pizza, learn Italian and tend to their own little garden.

Hands up if you love Florence: Hayden soaks up the scenery on his visit to the Italian city

Our tour of Florence began at the Duomo, the cathedral in the heart of the city, whose striking red, white and green marble dome dominates the skyline.

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Since 2009, most of the area around the cathedral has been pedestrianised, which makes it much safer for children. We climbed the Campanile - the Duomo's imposing bell tower - all 414 steps! It was perfect for children Hayden’s age, but would be impossible for younger children as there is no lift.

After all that climbing an ice cream, or gelato, was definitely needed. We stopped at Vivoli, the city’s famous gelateria, where owner Silvano Vivoli told us that her grandfather had founded the business in 1930. There were 30 flavours of ice cream to choose from and all are handmade on the premises.

Head for heights: The Duomo's striking red dome dominates Florence's skyline

In the evening we had dinner at the hotel’s Loggia Restaurant. The food, sourced locally, was exceptional. It also has a separate children’s menu with all their favourites such as hot dogs, pizza and pasta.

The next day, Villa San Michele's staff arranged a treasure hunt tour for Hayden at Florence's Palazzo Vecchio Museum. Our guide, Alessandra Bernabei, made it fun as well as educational. Hayden was mesmerised by the gold ceilings and had fun searching for the fleur de lis, the symbol of Florence, which is everywhere in the city.

The museum is located in Florence’s Piazza della Signoria. Here, soaring above us, were the famous sculptures, including a reproduction of Michelangelo’s David.

Seeing the sights: Hayden gets a closer look at the Duomo and, right, a reproduction of Michelangelo's David

Our next stop was the Uffizi Gallery, one of world’s great art museums. But spending a whole day wandering around its rooms with a child is not practical, so we showed Hayden only a few key works of art.

It’s a good idea to plan ahead and find out where your chosen paintings are located so you can move quickly between rooms. It’s worth noting, though, that the museum is currently undergoing major refurbishment and some of the galleries may change.

At the Uffizi, Hayden was captivated by Caravaggio's Medusa: he said it seemed lifelike and appeared to be watching him. After Medusa, we made a quick exit (just in case).

Be warned, the Uffizi was extremely busy. It is also essential to book tickets in advance, which you can do online (www.polomuseale.firenze.it) or in person.

We walked along the banks of the Arno river and crossed the Ponte Vecchio, a centuries-old bridge with houses and shops on it. Not far away are the vast Bomboli Gardens, located within the Palazzo Pitti. This is where Italian families go for picnics and Hayden was thrilled with its grottoes and huge fountains.

Stepping back in time: Tourists can explore the remains of a Roman theatre in the town of Fiesole

Another gelato break was needed before making our way back to the city centre. A good thing about Florence is that all the major sites such as the Duomo, the Uffizi and the Boboli Gardens are within walking distance, ideal for kids who tire easily.

Push it! Hayden poses for the obligatory Tower of Pisa photo

A downside is, like in many cities, the persistent street sellers. We found some to be rather aggressive, but a firm ‘non’ seemed to dissuade them.

Outside Florence, the town of Fiesole is situated on Etruscan grounds with its history beginning in the 7th century BC. We went to the archaeological museum where you can walk around the remains of the Roman theatre and baths. Hayden was fascinated with the ruins of the Roman loos. This museum was also fully accessible for families with buggies.

About an hour's drive west of Florence is Vinci. The Leonardo Museum is housed in an 11th century castle and has many drawings and models of his inventions, including flying machines. Many exhibits are interactive. We climbed to the top of the tower for spectacular views of Vinci and the surrounding countryside, with olive groves and vineyards in the distance. You can also visit Leonardo’s birthplace, a short drive away.

Another day trip was Siena, which was a disappointment. The Piazza del Campo and Duomo in the centre are impressive, but it was packed and we couldn’t find much to do there that would interest children.

From there, we reached San Gimignano late in the afternoon. This hilltop village was serene compared to the crowds of Siena. San Gimignano has 14 medieval towers, many of which you can climb. Hayden loved it here, saying he felt he was in The Lord of the Rings, but thankfully without the orcs!

On the way back to the airport we stopped in Pisa - another disappointment. We did not find the town child-friendly as there was an abundance of loud teenage backpackers who crowded the piazza. But of course we had to take the obligatory photographs pretending to hold up the tower. The verdict? Tuscany is fantastic for kids...but it isn't necessarily the big hitting attractions that will stir their imagination.

Travel Facts

Prices at Villa San Michele start from £690 per room per night based on two people sharing a Superior Double room, including taxes and with breakfast.

For further information or to make a booking visit www.villasanmichele.com or call the Orient-Express reservations team on 0845 077 2222.

EasyJet flies to Pisa from Gatwick. One-way fares start from £29.49pp, EasyJet.com

For further information visit www.visitflorence.com and www.italiantourism.com








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