The jambusters: Now the sugar police want to turn Britain's favourite preserves into 'thin German gloop'

Tea time may never be the same again.

The traditional taste and look of British jam is under threat from Government plans to allow makers to reduce its sugar content.

If implemented, manufacturers could produce inferior runny spreads similar to those sold in Germany and France and still call them ‘jam’.

Not only will they be thinner, the reduced sugar could make them more vulnerable to mould and cause red fruit jams such as strawberry to discolour into brown mush.



Sweet reason: Jam-maker Vivien Lloyd says proper British jam is far superior to German rivals

And the meddling does not stop at jam. According to a Department for Environment, Food and Rural Affairs (Defra) consultation, rules over fruit content in mincemeat and sugar in lemon curd may also be scrapped.


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At present a jam cannot be called a jam unless it contains at least 60 per cent sugar.

There are already spreads on sale – branded ‘reduced sugar jams’ – which are made with 25 to 50 per cent sugar, but there is nothing in UK regulations to allow jam to be sold with 50 to 60 per cent sugar.

Under the shake-up proposed by Defra, traditional jams will be allowed to have as little as 50 per cent sugar.


The Food Processors Association lobbied on behalf of manufacturers to bring Britain into line with rules operated in Europe.






Tiptree are are against the proposal, which will mean British jams use less sugar, like German brands (right), and say they will not change their recipe

David Atkinson, of the UK’s biggest brand Hartley’s, has spoken of ‘the positive benefit of potentially reducing sugar content in jam – effectively moving the market towards what are currently termed “reduced sugar” jams’.

Lower sugar does not necessarily mean a less sweet taste, as makers can use alternatives such as fruit syrups or artificial sweeteners.

But the Defra proposals have outraged many jam-makers, who claim they will allow inferior products on to shop shelves.

Leading jam-maker Vivien Lloyd has launched a petition on Facebook to ‘Keep Jam As Jam’. ‘Consumers must wake up,’ she said.


‘Preserving is a science. The 60 per cent sugar content is to guarantee a shelf-life of at least a year. The sugar content was decided following extensive scientific research. Of course, you can use chemical additives for preservatives, but who wants to see E numbers in traditional jam?’




Brian Kinsella , bar and lounge manager at The Goring hotel, tests did not enjoy the German preserves

Tiptree, which makes Wilkin & Sons jams, has told Defra the change will bring no benefits.

Tiptree factory manager Robert Parker said: ‘Our jams contain 67 per cent sugar and we are not going to change. If you reduce sugar the product will go mouldy.’

Liberal Democrat MP Tessa Munt is demanding a parliamentary debate: ‘I want British jam for my grandchildren to be just like the British jam my grandmother made. If we change the rules, shoppers will lose confidence in jam brands.’

But Clippy McKenna, a jam-maker from Cheshire who was barred by the current rules from calling her 52 per cent apple conserve a jam, said the opposition was ‘selfish’. ‘They’re trying to scare people,’ she added. ‘We’re a tiny company bringing on new products and want to be free from red tape.’

Defra admits potential problems with spoilage but said advances in filling and sealing technology allowed for jams with lower sugar. The consultation ends on May 22.